KRCW

My mother used to poach — at a super-low simmer — large fillets of salmon in what I considered to be an unholy amount of dry white wine. But no one ever has equaled the tender result. It's like a pudding with gills.

Salmon poached in white wine
Heat a bottle (or more, depending on how much fish you will cook) of dry white wine to a soft boil in a large flat pan; lower heat to a bare simmer. Add a good pinch of salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Add 6 skinless salmon fillets, about a half-pound apiece, at room temperature; cook through, until the fish is opaque, never allowing the liquid to rise above a low simmer, 15-20 minutes. Gently lift the fillets with a slotted spatula; serve. Makes: 6 servings

An exotic take: Before adding the wine, in the dry pan, toast until fragrant 2 teaspoons coriander seeds and a short length of cinnamon stick; remove and set aside. Saute 1 tablespoon of garlic-ginger paste (available at Indian markets) in a tablespoon of oil or ghee, add back the toasted spices and proceed as above.

Try either of these or like wines with this fish dish. Both are zippy in acidity, a key component for a delicious pairing with either the main or the alternative preparation.

2009 Nino Franco Prosecco Grave di Stecca, Veneto, Italy: A rare prosecco on two counts: vintage-dated and from a single vineyard; creamy texture slowly opens up layers of flavors, finishing with zest. $35

2010 Laetitia Pinot Noir Estate, Arroyo Grande, California: Of the black cherry and chocolate vein, with a touch of earthy, mushroom-y character; fine acidity from its cool climate, and a fine buy. $22

— Bill St. John, special to Tribune Newspapers